Hoi An has some excellent places to eat and drink -- on the riverfront, scattered throughout town, and across the water on Cam Nam Island.

Hoi An flourished thanks to its port, attracting traders from China, Japan and the Mediterranean. Out of this mixture of cultures, a unique style of Vietnamese cooking developed, drawing upon a wide range of flavours, influences and cooking techniques. Hoi An is now home to a number of specialty dishes, many of which can be traced to foreign origins. The most famous is cao lau, a tasty soup made with thick wheat noodles, meat and aromatic vegetables. Though it may not be instantly recognisable to Japanese visitors today, it was influenced by imported Japanese soba noodles. Local lore says that the dish must be made from the water of a specific well -- others argue that it is simply the distinctive noodles that make it unique. A dryer version of the dish, mi quang, is also widely available. Chinese influenced rice-flower dumplings, called banh beo and banh vac (white rose) are also common. Much less publicised is com ga, a tasty stir-fry of rice, chicken, garlic and vegetables.

These dishes are available everywhere, and it can often seem that they're all the restaurants in Hoi An serve. Most are geared toward customers simply passing through town, and many have little concern for quality, making it hard to find exceptional versions of any of the dishes. One safe bet is to take effort to search out more local options. Cau lau and banh xeo (small rice and turmeric crepes) are widely available in the central market. On Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, heading away from the old town and the Japanese Bridge, you'll find several stands serving an especially tasty version of mi quang. For com ga, check out the shops along Phan Chu Trinh, near the Tran Family Chapel.

Treats Cafe has expanded to two locations on Tran Hung Dao, but the original is a two-storey place that jars the senses as much as the upstairs hanging lanterns jar your head when you stand or sit down at the riverview tables. Comfortable and very popular, its loud music and boisterous staff make it seem somewhat out of place in this sleepy corner of Hoi An. The Western food is average, though no complaints about the Vietnamese options. Treats 'Same Same But Better' Cafe on the corner of Tran Hung Dao and Hai Ba Trung is also popular, mostly because of its proximity to the backpacker quarters. They have a pool table and a good atmosphere for a drink, but we found the food here lacklustre -- the pizza was overly sweet and greasy.